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Saturday, February 28, 2009

Indian Textile Sector on Ventilator New!

Last year among all the sectors that were badly hit by the squeezing of the global vis-á-vis the Indian economy, it was the textile sector. Its probable impact on the sector could be gauged from the fact that the government had to send a Save-Our-Soul message to determine the impact of job loss in this sector, followed with not one but two consecutive fiscal stimulus packages.


Its irony that this has taken place on a sector that till July, 2008 was eulogized as a "Sunrise Sector", that will engage 17.37 million people alone up to 2012. However, coming to the end of the year 2008 it started showing the symptoms of a "Sunset" sector.


The contribution of textile sector, according to the annual report 2007-08, is 14 per cent to industrial production, 4 per cent to the GDP, and 17 per cent to the country's export earnings.


The roller-coaster ride of the sector in the last fiscal came with the drastic erosion of its cost competitiveness that Indian textiles exporters had enjoyed in the US, EU and Canada, and also in the markets of U.A.E., Japan, Bangladesh and Turkey. The Index of Industrial Production (IIP) in this sector in September saw 4.9 per cent, in October it went to a negative territory registering minus 7.1 per cent. High input and transaction costs also bleed the sector profusely.


The export basket that consists of items like cotton yarn and fabrics, man-made yarn and fabrics, wool and silk fabrics, made-ups and variety of garments, the 'handicraft' export dips negative 2.46 %. In the months April-May 2007 it was Rs.812.55 crore while it was Rs.833.05 crore in the same months in 2008. Natural silk yarn, fabrics and made-ups also registered negative 16.31% growth from Rs.270.46 in April-May 2007 to Rs.226.35 crore in the corresponding months in 2008. The export of textile based products in the month July-September 2008 saw 30 to 35% dip.


The negative growth of export in 'handicraft' is a matter of concern, especially for the North Eastern Region, since the area enjoys the highest concentration of handlooms in the country. According to 1995-96 Handloom Census, out of 25.4 lakh units engaged in handloom activities, 14.6 lakh units (household and non-house hold) are concentrated in Assam, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Tripura. Of the 13.4% contribution in the commercial looms of the country from these states, the total production of handloom fabric is merely 20%.


When things have been going wrong in the domestic and international markets, the condition of textile sector in the northeastern states is not away from anybody's guess. The sector in the region has been marred with difficulties in the absorption of funds, which has been posed as a greater impediment in the way of its growth. It includes delay in submission of proposals, non release of the States governments' share in case of Centrally Sponsored Scheme and non-submission of utilization certificates, the absence of infrastructure facilities and of credible Non Government Organisations are other problems that infest the sector, hence the exports prospect originating from the region.


The dip in the export prospects started happening at the time when the target set for the export of textile-based product for the year 2007-08 was US$ 25.06 billion, while the actual exports performance touched US$ 22 billion, as per the provisional figures. However, there has been an increase of US$ 2.3 billion compared to the exports performance in the year 2006-07.


On the other hand, at the import front, it was not rosy, even. The import of raw jute declined minus 26% from Rs.16.77 crore in April-May 2007 to Rs.12.41 crore in the same months in the year 2008. Notwithstanding, investments in the sector was also badly hit; there was a 66% decline in investments in the period April-August 2008-09, compared to 2005-06.


The textile sector which is the largest employer in the country with more than 3.5 crore workers, in November came out with a disturbing figure that in 6 months, 7 lakh workers had lost their jobs in the contraction of the global economy that had a cascading affect on the sector. And in the next 3 months, 12 lakh more jobs will be axed, the media reported.
The ongoing eclipse in the sector all started from the beginning of the year 2007 when Indian rupee steeply appreciated against the US dollar. Seems it was not the end of bad news for the sector, before rupee started depreciating, the prices of the cotton skyrocketed into a new height, there was price increase of over 40% in India within a period of less than 6 months ending September 2008. Exacerbating the sector more, increase in interest rates with steep power cuts also played a pivotal role. Inflation touched 13-year high 12.01% in the week ending 26 July, and the repo rate 9 per cent.


If there was any good news that came for the Northeastern states, it came in November, with the Government's approval of the Comprehensive Development Scheme as a Central Sector Plan Scheme during the XI Five Year Plan. Under the scheme, Sibsagar in Assam, Varanasi and Moradabad in Uttar Pradesh, and Narasapur in Andhra Pradesh, were allocated Rs.70.00 crore each to meet the changing market demand both at domestic and international market and for technology up-gradation.


The first fiscal stimulus package declared by Government on December with slew of measures like 2% interest rate subvention in pre-and post-shipment credit for textiles up to March 31, 2009; followed by infusing Rs.1,100 crore to ensure full refund of Terminal Excise duty/CST, also failed to bail out the shrinking sector. Other measures, the allocation of Rs.350 crore each for export incentive schemes and for back-up guarantee for ECGC for exports to difficult markets/products; service tax refund on foreign agent commissions of up to 10% of FOB value of exports, also botched to revive the sector.


According to trade bodies, both the declared packages are negligible and insufficient compared to competing countries like China and Pakistan. The two packages ignored the two-year moratorium period demand for repayment of loans, enhancement of credit limit from three months to nine months, 2% increase in the interest subvention for export credit, that the industry was hoping was not addressed.


It has further stated that to protect the textile industry a clear cut guideline is essential for availing two year moratorium for repayment of loans, lest it should become NPAs; along with it a special package for working capital is also required to manage the abrupt increase in the minimum support price for cotton.

Integrating Textiles with Electronic Systems



Abstract/Position Statement


As a textile lecturer and designer I am interested in the intersection between emerging technologies and traditional textile practice. Exploring the structural properties of a fabric and creating potentially new geometries or systems in cloth and pattern are a key interest. Embedding electronics into fabric surfaces has great potential for collaboration and pervasive textile artworks. I would like to apply to participate in The Pervasive Workshop in order to present my own ongoing research collaborations and to open discussions on integrating textiles with display technology. I have little technical experience in electronics however I can contribute to discussions in terms of textile experience. Out of these dialogues potential collaborations and future new works have the potential to arise.


Key Words


Textile systems, e-textiles, thermo chromatic inks, LED light circuits, non woven fabrics, traditional textile constructions, intersections of technology with fabric structures, pervasive textile artwork


Introduction


Against the current climate of multi-disciplinary design collaboration traditional textile constructions are merging with new technologies. In terms of textile manufacturing some of the most interesting intersections between traditional textiles and technology are happening in Japan. Textile Designers are collaborating with scientists and engineers to produce extraordinary results. Artists find themselves in an age where they can merge two opposites hand and technology( Wada 2002) Two key areas have emerged in textiles. Smart fabrics that can resist stains and act like skins to control heat and insulation. Electronic textiles that can be wearable and incorporate small computations within the cloth.. In such cases conductive threads are incorporated to enable conductivity. This can result in fabrics emitting sound, smell and light (Berzowska 2005). It is against this background that I have made early explorations of hand and technology in my textile work and would like to incorporate more possibilities and outcomes in this spirit of exploration.



Figure 1: Reticella Lace Series Photo credit Paul Pavlou


Background Research Projects


An ongoing pre-occupation in my practice is to create contemporary lace interpretations, (fig.1). The impetus behind this work talks into the integration of technology with traditional textile constructions. Encoded in the process is the tradition of a textile history that is continually responding to creative technologies evolving within each age (Heffer 2007).


The illustrated work entitled "Reticella Lace Series" (fig. 1 and 2) is from a solo exhibition of contemporary lace works funded by the Visual Arts/Craft Board of the Australia Council under the category of New Emerging Work. Contemporary Lace is a collection of work that specifically investigates new textile possibilities and configurations. The intention is to create new emerging textile works that combine current innovative technologies with existing traditional craft skills. I am interested in creating a dialog between the old and the new existing along side each other. One informs the other. This interaction of the two creates a new form. Laser technology can be combined with hand finishing, the drawn and hand painted translated through the digital imaging (Cochrane 2004).
Consequently the Pervasive Workshop could open up possible collaborations in this field. I am interested in adapting this new open work system of lace with conductive threads. I would like to embed electronics in the lace to explore thermo chromatic inks in order to create shifting patterns that respond to heat and touch. Ongoing future textile research projects will experiment with cloth and sound and work with light. These will be linked to the work I have already developed through exploring contemporary lace translations



Figure 2: LACED Contemporary Textiles, Solo Exhibition Sheffer Gallery, June 2006


My investigation into to construction of lace as a new system of open work fabric focuses on the construction of Sheffer Gallery, June 2006 space as a means to identify form. It looks at the interplay between positive and negative, between the interface of the background and foreground (Shepherd 2003). As individuals we identify ourselves by what we are placed next to. We associate ourselves through objects however we also identify ourselves by the spaces we inhabit between those objects (Lynn 2001). We notice the differences between ourselves and other cultures in order to understand our own cultural identity. In this respect the new textile works can be seen as a new place, an intersection between tradition and technology, a third lace.


This new area of research is a major departure from my previous professional textile design practice. Up until now I have developed textile skills and solved design problems within the practical constraints of a client brief. The emerging work is a creative shift that enables me time for research and reflection. Thus it aims not to pursue a technique in a traditional manner but to unravel and question it and in doing so create new work and meaning. The conceptual approach to this work sits outside the original function of the object. Research into lace has fed directly into my lecturing on innovative textiles at the University of Technology Sydney where I coordinate textiles and lecture.


Lace Curtain Commission for Government House


In March 2007 I completed a commission to design a contemporary lace curtain for the State Rooms at Government House Sydney, (fig. 3). The project was part of the Historic Houses Trust To Furnish a Future Program. The lace curtain is contemporary in its translation and is designed to drape behind the original crimson damask provided by Lyon, Cottier & Co in 1879. The damask was subsequently reproduced for Government House by the French firm Lelievre Lyons. The lace commission has been woven as Nottingham Lace on an hundred year old loom in Scotland. The loom is the only one of its kind worldwide. Linked to a CAD system it is a wonderful living example of technology integrating with tradition and history.
Reskin the Future of Wearable Technology


In January 2007 I was selected to participate in the first Australian Wearables Technology Research and Development Laboratory. The lab was called reSkin, The Future of Wearable Technology and was an initiative of the Australian Network for Art and Technology in partnership with Craft Australia and the Australian National University School of Art and Design. In this intensive workshop twenty two designers, artists, and sound engineers worked in collaboration under the guidance of International and National facilitators. Directions specifically for smart textiles and their application to future design outcomes were played with and explored. This resulted experimental works entitled Pods, (Fig.3). This exercise attempted to integrate one of history's oldest textiles, felt, with simple electric circuits and LED lights. The result is a felt vessel that illuminates in the dark (Fig 5 and 6).
Future Collaborations


While very simple in its exploration this work forms the basis of new developmental research and collaboration with artist Danielle Wilde. Wilde explores the poetic in the design and use of interactive and wearable elements and systems. Together we are going to explore embedding LED lights and circuits within nonwoven felt lace works. The intention is to create a felt garment that responds to touch and interacts with the movement of the body.


Conclusion


With the knowledge that extraordinary outcomes are emerging in this field of soft computation and electronic textiles I would like to see how this can be adopted into my own practice. As a result of the reSkin Workshop a lot of questions arose in terms of the practical challenges of sources of energy and ways to incorporate electronics into cloth. The Pervasive Workshop will open these discussions with a collective group of specialists that can lead to new collaborations and possibilities in this field.


Acknowledgments


I would like to thank Danielle Wilde for her ongoing contributions to this area of research.


References


1. Berzoska, J Electronic Textiles: wearable Computers, Reactive Fashion and Soft Computation, p.2-19 Textiles, Volume 3,Issue . Berg. Printed in the United Kingdom, 2005
2. Cochrane,G Craft Australia National Papers. Handmade at the heart of things, 2004
3. Heffer,C., catalogue artist statement. In Integration The Nature of Objects, p.20 Ivan Dougherty Gallery, College of Fine Arts, The university of New South Wales 2007.
4. Lynn, V. Space Odysseys: Sensation & Immersion, exhibition catalogue. Sydney: The Art Gallery of NSW, 2001
5. Sheperd, R., Lace: definition and classification, Powerhouse Museum, Sydney, 2003
6. Wada,Y Memory on cloth : shibori now New York : Kodansha International, 2002.

Fabrics from the Desert Land 'The Kota Doria'


Rajasthan is not only a land of rippling sand dunes, and majestic forts, but is also infamous for its vibrant and colorful handicrafts. On the banks of river Chambal in the south east of Rajasthan is a district called 'Kota', which is renowned for its exclusive 'Kota Doria' saris. Woven with silk yarn and cotton in a combination of warp and weft, it gives an exclusive check pattern to the fabric, which makes it a unique and elite handloom product.

A wide range of fashionable garments like saris, suits, stoles, scarves, and furnishings are made with this fabric. Indian and international fashion designers are depicting a range of Kota Doria products in their collections. This also proves that fashion can also be used as a means of socio economic transformation for the poorer sections of the society. Kota Doria woven with the 'magical fingers' by the craftsman of Rajasthan is now one of the favorite choices of fashionist, with its demand growing in the domestic and the international market.

The 'Kota Doria'

'Doria' means thread. It is woven from silk yarn and cotton in a different combination of warp and weft with an exclusive check pattern in the weave itself, which is known as 'khat'. The khats are present in the basic fabric itself, and are woven in a very skillful way that the fabric looks transparent. This is a hallmark and a unique feature of the doria fabric, which has made it an exclusive handloom product. The doria fabric can be made in a series of steps. First is the 'Pre Loom' process, where a traditional process is followed to spin the yarn. Under this process of weaving, peg warping and brush sizing is done. Rice paste and onion juice is applied to the yarn so as to make it strong. Then is the application of dyes. Dyes are mixed in proper proportion by traditional dyers to give a contemporary look to the fabrics. Mostly vegetable or vat dyes are used making the process eco friendly. The final step is 'Design and Weaving', where weaving is generally done through pit looms using the shuttle technique. The designs are made in the cloth using Jacquards, or dobbys. Dobby is used for ground motifs and pallus, while jacquards are used for making exquisite borders on the saris. This handicraft provides living for more than 2,500 weaver families working on pit hand looms.



Kota Doria at the spotlight of Fashion:



A wide range of fashionable garments like saris, suits, stoles, scarves, and furnishings are made with this fabric. The delicate and porous nature of the fabric makes it more convenient for surface ornamentation techniques like batik, tie-and-dye, embroidery, and appliqué work. Today, both Indian and international fashion designers are depicting a range of Kota Doria products in their collections. These fabrics have paved their way into the ramp shows as well. Bibi Russel, a model and fashion designer, whose name is well known in the European fashion world, has built an international reputation for these fabrics. She has displayed her collections designed with the Kota Doria fabric, which has earned a global fame for the fabric. This also proves that fashion can also be used as a means of socio economic transformation for the poorer sections of the society.



The magical land of Rajasthan is bestowed with several captivating features since time immemorial. Kota Doria woven with the 'magical fingers' by the craftsman of Rajasthan is now one of the favorite choices of fashionist, with its demand growing in the domestic and the international market.



References:



1. http://www.craftandartisans.com
2. http://kota.nic.in/ind.htm
3. http://kotadoria.com/

Duty On Cotton Textiles & Articles Reduced From 4% to NIL


Following are the extracts from the reply of Finance Minister, Shri Pranab Mukhejee on Interim Budget 2009-10, in Lok Sabha, here:

“My friends from the other side have raised a number of issues. They have blamed the UPA Government for failure on the economic front, on the performance of the public sector, on employment generation, inflation, on fiscal deficit, plight of farmers, FDI and inadequacies of our regulatory framework. They have also pointed towards the “lost opportunities” in my Interim Budget speech.

Let me turn to some figures that tell their own story. A look at the comparative annual average figures between the two periods shows:

The GDP growth rate which was 5.8 per cent during 1999-2004 rose to 8.6 per cent during the 2004-2009.

The fiscal deficit and revenue deficit that stood at 5.5 per cent and 4.0 per cent respectively during 1999-2004 declined to 4.1 per cent and 2.5 per cent during 2004-09.

The Tax to GDP ratio went up from 8.8 per cent during 1999-2004 to 11.1 per cent during 2004-09, while the Savings to GDP ratio which was 25.6 per cent in 1999-2004 shot up to 34.8 per cent during 2004-08.

Similarly, Investment to GDP ratio at 25.2 per cent during 1999-2004 went upto 35.9 per cent during 2004-08.

The Government’s policy on disinvestment does not envisage any outright or strategic sale of a Central Public Sector Enterprise (CPSE). The focus of the policy is to enable unlisted and profitable CPSEs to raise capital through Initial Public Offerings (IPOs) with the Government offering a minority shareholding for divestiture. The intent is to ensure that Government equity remains above 51% and Government retains management control. However, because of the adverse market conditions during the year 2008-09, there has not been a single IPO and nor has there been any disinvestment.

The UPA Government is making all possible efforts to turnaround the loss making Central PSE’s like Indian Telephone Industries (ITI) through the infusion of funds and superior techno-managerial practices.
It is important to recognize that the Union Budget statement is just one of the instruments for addressing economic policy concerns. Indeed, right from the day when the financial crisis erupted in the middle of September 2008, the Government has been alert and responsive to the fast changing developments. Government has undertaken the required administrative and fiscal measures in tandem with the monetary policy initiatives of the RBI by announcing two stimulus packages on December 7, 2008 and January 2, 2009.

A number of Tax and other fiscal measures have been undertaken. These include:

• An across the board cut in CENVAT by 4 percentage points benefitting all sectors;
• Reduction of the rate of duty on cotton textiles and textile articles from 4% to Nil.
• Provision of additional funds of Rs.1100 crore to ensure full refund of Terminal Excise duty/CST.

Doyens acclaim branding campaign for Nonwovens Industry even before its launch

www.nonwovensupplier.com - 365 days online branding campaign for nonwovens Industry is a bold initiative by Fibre2Fashion to cater to the field of nonwovens through its thick presence worldwide. It has been able to garner a very good response from nonwovens manufacturers, machinery manufacturers and marketers as well as consultants.

This has come in no small measure to the goodwill generated by Fibre2Fashion through its 10 years of valuable service offered to the industry. The campaign will start from 31st March 2009 for one full year. Companies have slowly but surely begun to realize the power of the internet and in turn the influence and impact that online branding is able to generate across the globe, beyond any demarcated geographical boundaries.

Dr. PR Roy, a leading Management Consultant and a former group chief executive of Arvind Mills got highly impressed with the commitment and dedication of fibre2fashion’s team behind the campaign.

Congratulating the team, he appreciated Fibre2Fashion's brilliant concept of bringing underneath one common umbrella all those concerned in a rapidly growing sector like nonwovens to look at their current and future business with the support of authentic data / information. He further added that despite the present economic meltdown, the bold and pragmatic industry leaders are expected to choose their next steps forward on the basis of such meaningful support. He wishes Fibre2Fashion all the success in this endeavor.

Ms. Scholken, Sales Manager at RML Raynworth Marketing Ltd, one of the leading machinery marketing companies from Switzerland got abundantly convinced with the concept and its deliverables. In a happy tone, she said, “This is the third time that we have participated in an internet based activity”. Continuing with her review, she added by saying, “The most impressive part in this campaign is the branding across ministries, associations and companies globally, which they are looking at since long.

A separate location on the internet, www.nonwovensupplier.com is a 365 days online branding campaign designed for nonwoven fabric manufacturers, converters, machinery manufacturers and consultants. One of the distinct features of this campaign is the creation of comprehensive directory of suppliers to the nonwovens industry. It would serve as a ready reference for companies to source fabric, machinery or take an expert opinion in the field of nonwovens.

Product Showcase is another exclusive offering wherein companies can display their products online throughout the year. The same will be optimized through a team of expert optimizers across major search engines worldwide. As a part of its campaigning process, fibre2fashion will circulate 2000 copies of this comprehensive directory to ministries, associations andcompanies worldwide.

Participation in the campaign will draw great benefits in terms of global branding and business generation. Fibre2fashion also appeals for immediate participation in order to avail the benefits of early registration, sources said.

To have a look at the participants to this global initiative or for more updates, please visit www.nonwovensupplier.com.


Source : Fibre2fashion

'Brands Will Not Expand Catalogues In New Season' – Mr Asif, Marketing Manager

The Pakistan textile and garment industry is passing though what is called ‘walking on blazing coals with bare feet’ or in simpler terms ‘trial by fire’. In the last two years the industry has had to go through a multitude of difficulties, more so to with lop sided government policies and few of their own doing but still a few bold companies have been able to overcome and survive through all these difficulties and keep the flag flying.

One of these is Ahmed Hassan Textile Mills, a Pakistan based textile group, of the same eponymous name and which is in the business of textiles from a quarter of a century. The group owns a ginning factory and the Ahmed Hassan Textile Mills, which is a composite mill with 38,400 spindles and 130 air-jet looms, with total sales of US $42 million, including export sales of $34 million in the last fiscal.

Fibre2fashon spoke to Mr. Asif Sindu, Marketing Manager of their Fabric Division on the tribulations faced by the sector in general and his outlook on future prospects. We began by asking him as to how the shortage of energy and power has affected the industry in recent times, to which he replied by saying, “Rising energy and rising financial costs are the main reasons behind current difficulties”.

He added by saying, “At the same time, production losses definitely squeezes our market share leading to a loss of customers as well, all because of this power crises, which is still not expected to improve even within the next 2 - 3 years as per observations of many analysts”

We then asked him as to what major challenges he foresees from the domestic and global markets in their products, to which he commented by saying, “At the moment main the main challenge is to match the customer's expectations of price, quality and delivery schedules, all of which other than quality have been badly disturbed due to energy and power crisis and high fluctuations in prices of raw materials”

He continued, “To add to this the government has withdrawn a number of incentives and some relaxations. All these put together have gone a long way to hit the industry hard, where it really hurts. Supplying good quality is not an issue, since we have one of the most experienced pools of technical personnel to deliver products of good quality complying with high international standards”.
We then moved to a question which is troubling most of the exporters and asked him whether he anticipates a significant change in demand due to the recession, to which he replied by saying, “Definitely, because consumer purchasing capacity has gone down by 20-30 percent, since the crisis unfolded, which will definitely impact consumer spending and affect demand, more in particular from the clothing sector”.

He carried on, “Even most the famous & big brands are planning not to expand their catalogues for the upcoming season and most probably they will continue to focus on their previous offerings to save costs of new product development, keeping in the mind the current consumer sentiments, since, the consumer buying pattern seems very obvious in the last few months”.

He added, “Basically situation started changing since mid-2007 leading to a massive demand-contraction in western markets. US textile imports went down by 26 percent in November 2008. Among major retailers, except for Wal-Mart, all others had a decline in sale of 10-20 percent with Abercrombie and Fitch going down by 28 percent. Though the situation in Europe is still not that gloomy, it cannot escape from the contagion effect”.


Fibre2fashion News Desk - India

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

China's clothing and textile sector hurts


It seems that the great Chinese dragon is wounded and its shadow over the global apparel and textile industries (T & A) has diminished albeit only slightly. Injured in the collective repercussions of the economic turmoil the world is experiencing, it will retreat, develop new strategies and incentives to reappear once again in the hope of retaking, through its new found power and manipulation, diminished markets to feed its nation and avert any social unrest due to massive job losses in its export orientated industries.

The Chinese National Bureau of Statistics reflects a decline in its textile profit for 2008 by nearly 2% compared to the same period for 2007. According to statistical data this is the first time the industry has show a negative profit growth in 10 years. A collective decrease in garment and textile exports had dropped by 30%. A Reuters report in January 2009 stated "Chinese factories [had] slashed output and workers at a record pace in December 2008."

Exports

In 2007 exports in textile and apparel reached US$171.17 billion. The same report states factory output grew just under 6% from January to November 2008 and that the Chinese economy is close to "technical recession."

Further statistics reflect a down-turn in China's textile and apparel market showing that the mighty dragon is hurting. Between January to February 2008 production of "large-scale textile enterprises" was 16.55% an 8.05 percentage point loss for the same month in 2007. For the first 10 months of 2008 total textile production was 14.73% the "sharpest contraction in five year."

Textile and garment exports between January to October 2008 were $157.413 billion - a growth of 8.43% which is 12.09% lower than 2007. Textile exports for the same period Jan-Oct 2008 was $59.146 billion - an increase of 2.94% from 2007 while garment exports dropped by 20.1 % for the same period, equating to $98.267 billion.

While the global market is in a slum many textile and garment businesses in China have begun to look inward with domestic sales equating to 76.50% of China's total textile sales.

Textile tax rebates

The depreciation of China's Renminbi is an added burden on the industry; so is the increased cost in labour. In response the Chinese government has lifted the tax rebate for both textiles and clothing enterprises twice during 2008 from 11% to 14%. It is expected the clothing export tax rebate of 17% will come into effect early this year.

China will also be implementing numerous policies to reinvigorate the textile sector such as technical innovation in the early part of 2009. Industry trade specialists say the first half of 2009 will be a critical period for the textile and clothing sector to regroup. These industries will be looking for alternative markets. At the moment the sector is still very dependent on America, the European Union and Japan for exports.

Operating margins

A study of the operating margin of textile operations in China indicates that two-thirds of textile companies operate on a 0.62% margin and have a direct influence on the livelihood of 15 million people. It is estimated that there are more than 20 million workers in the clothing & textile industry sectors with 13 million rural migrant workers making up the bulk of the labour force.

The China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC) is extremely concerned about factory closures, and the ability to absorb job losses mostly among the migrant workers. Official figures in 2008 indicate that there are 40,000 textile companies in China with annual sales higher than US$660.000 and there are hundreds of thousands of smaller operations.

Market flooding and job losses

Like South Africa, the US is also concerned about the possible re-flooding of apparel imports as certain quota limitations have also expired. The American apparel industry faces a threat of more job losses at a time when America cannot afford such retrenchments. In 2005 when China flooded the market nearly 55,000 jobs were lost in one year.

The Chief Executive Director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition said the industry could face another 50,000 lost jobs during 2009. Between 2002 and 2008 there was a 33% "decrease in textile and apparel jobs." American manufacturers said that the industry has recalibrated to compete on an even footing with China considering their low wages but could not compete when the Chinese government subsidises the industry to such an extent that China can "sell finished products for less than the fibre costs in the US."

Growing competition

While the Chinese dragon is licking its wounds, the textile and clothing industry in Vietnam has grown. In 2007 the Vietnam industry grew by 33.4% to become in 2008 the USA's second largest foreign suppliers of textiles and clothing. China still maintains their position of the largest exporter to America. Exports from Vietnam to the European Union have also grown. In the first six months of 2008 exports to the EU grew by 8.4%. Chinese exports to the EU during the same period increased by 5.1%.

The Indonesian market saw a moderate increase in exports during the first six months of 2008, with domestic demand growing. The Malaysian textile and clothing industry saw a 3.2% decrease in 2007 while the Philippines faced heavy competition from China. Thailand's industry grew during the same period during 2008 in comparison to the same period for 2007.

Bangladesh clothing exports for the financial year 2007-June 2008 rose by 16.2% and India's textile exports saw a 16.7% increase between 2007/08 while clothing exports only grew by 6.8%. The industry in Sri Lanka saw an increase of 8.5% in exports. In 2007 global fibre production increased by 6.0% the growth rate stemmed from an 8.5% increase in global man-made fibre mostly from China and India. Natural fibres saw a 2.6% growth during 2007.

SA imports

During the period of South Africa's quotas on Chinese imports, Mauritius, Malaysia and Bangladesh increased their exports to South Africa by at least 345%, 680% and 2076% respectively. Imports from Vietnam equated to 388%, Thailand by 39% and Myanmar 197%.

The now open South African market could result in a mini trade war between China wanting to recapture market loss during the quota period and some of the countries who gained market share during the same period. The result may see even cheaper clothing enter SA, from which South African cash-strapped consumers will benefit to the detriment of the local clothing and textile sector as SA retailers exploit the competition between foreign apparel and textile suppliers.

India's Economy Hits the Wall


Growth is slipping, stocks are down 40%, and foreign stock market investors are fleeing. Businessmen blame the ruling coalition for failing to make reforms.

Just six months ago, India was looking good. Annual growth was 9%, corporate profits were surging 20%, the stock market had risen 50% in 2007, consumer demand was huge, local companies were making ambitious international acquisitions, and foreign investment was growing. Nothing, it seemed, could stop the forward march of this Asian nation.

But stop it has. In the past month, India has joined the list of the wounded. The country is reeling from 11.4% inflation, large government deficits, and rising interest rates. Foreign investment is fleeing, the rupee is falling, and the stock market is down over 40% from the year's highs. Most economic forecasts expect growth to slow to 7%—a big drop for a country that needs to accelerate growth, not reduce it. "India has gone from hero to zero in six months," says Andrew Holland, head of proprietary trading at Merrill Lynch India (MER) in Mumbai. Many in India worry that the country's hard-earned investment-grade rating will soon be lost and that the gilded growth story has come to an end.

Global circumstances—soaring oil prices and the sub prime crisis that dried up the flow of foreign funds—are certainly to blame. But so is New Delhi. Much of the crisis India faces today could have been avoided by skillful planning. India imports 75% of its oil to meet demand, which have grown exponentially as its economy expands. The government also subsidizes 60% of the price of such fuels as diesel. In 2007, when inflation was a low 3%, economists such as Standard & Poor's Saber Gokarn urged New Delhi to start cutting subsidies. Instead, the populist ruling Congress government spent $25 billion on waiving loans made to farmers and hiking bureaucrats' salaries.

Botched Opportunities
Now those expenditures, plus an additional $25 billion on upcoming fertilizer subsidies, is adding $100 billion a year—or 10% of India's gross domestic product, or equivalent to the country's entire collection of income taxes—to the national bill. This at a time when India needs urgently to spend $500 billion on new infrastructure and more on upgrading education and health-care facilities. The government's official debt, which dropped below 6% of gross domestic product last year, will now be closer to 10% this year. "Starting last year, the government missed key opportunities" to fix the economy, says Gokarn. In fact, he adds, "there has been no significant reform done at all in the past four years"—the time the Congress coalition has been in power.

Even the most bullish on India are hard-pressed to recall any significant economic reforms made in the recent past. A plan to build 30 Special Economic Zones is virtually suspended because New Delhi has not sorted out how to acquire the necessary land, a major issue in both urban and rural India, without a major social and political upheaval. Agriculture, distorted by fertilizer subsidies and technologically laggard, is woefully unproductive. Simple and nonpolitical reforms, like strengthening the legal system and adding more judges to the courtrooms, have been ignored.

A June 16 report by Goldman Sachs' (GS) Jim O'Neill and Tushar Plodder, Ten Things for India to Achieve Its 2050 Potential, is a grim reminder that India has fallen to the bottom of the four BRIC nations (Brazil, Russia, India, and China) in its growth scores, due largely to government inertia. The report states that India's rice yields are a third those of China and half of Vietnam's. While 60% of the country's labor force is employed in agriculture, farming contributes less than 1% to overall growth. The report urges India to improve governance, raise educational achievement, and control inflation. It also advises reining in profligate expenditures, liberalizing its financial markets, increasing agricultural productivity, and improving infrastructure, the environment, and energy use. "The will to implement all these needs leadership," points out Poddar. "We have a government in New Delhi with the best brains, the dream team," he says, referring to Oxford-educated Prime Minister ManMohan Singh and Harvard-educated Finance Minister P. Chidambaram. "If they don't deliver, then what?"

Disillusioned Business
More worried than most are India's businessmen, who have turned in stellar performances with their investment and entrepreneurial drive and begun to look like multinational players. For them, there's plenty at stake. But lack of infrastructure, from new ports to roads, along with an undeveloped corporate bond market and high prices for real estate, commodities, and talent, are causing them to hit "choke points and structural impediments all over. We will lose years," says Bombay investor Chetan Parikh of of Jeetay Investments.

Sanjay Kirloskar, chief executive of Kirloskar Brothers (KRBR.BO), a premier $470 million maker of water pumps, already has $100 million in overseas contracts. Yet few infrastructure contracts have come from New Delhi. Kirloskar had hoped to be part of a grand project linking India's rivers, but those plans have been on hold for four years. "The infrastructure growth we had hoped for has not come about," he says. "Instead, we will now expand overseas more than in India."

Such constraints on growth at home will have an impact. Corporate earnings growth is likely to dip, says Merrill Lynch's Holland, who now predicts just 10% growth, instead of the previous year's 20%. That slowdown makes it less attractive for foreigners to invest in India's stock market. Already this year, foreigners have taken $5.5 billion out of the market, compared with the $19 billion they invested last year. Gagan Banga, chief executive of India Bulls Financial Services, an emerging finance and real estate giant, points admiringly to China's ability to maintain its growth momentum for a decade, while India's has not been able to hold up for even three years. "Serious companies are going to grow at a much slower pace, and some may even de-grow this year," he says. Unless major policy decisions are made by New Delhi immediately to keep the economy on the growth path, he says, "India will slow down even further."

New Delhi defends its four year reign in India. "We've had 9% growth for four years in a row," says Sanjaya Baru, media adviser to Prime Minister Singh. "That is unprecedented." He attributes it to the increasing rate of investment, up from 28% of GDP to 35% currently, "close to most ASEAN economies," though he admits that a large part is from the private sector. "Yes, there is a fiscal problem, but there's a price to be paid for coalition politics," adds Baru. So having growth drop "from 9% to 7% is not grim."

Social Backlash?
Chetan Modi, head of Moody's India, says the increasingly high cost of doing business in India may force global investors who had set up base in India—especially financial-services players—to move to more affordable and efficient hubs, such as Singapore and Hong Kong. If the economy slows and inflation continues to accelerate, says Sherman Chan, economist at Moody's Economy.com, "social unrest is possible."

In fact, India is becoming a dangerous social cauldron. The wealth harvested by the reforms of previous governments has made itself evident in the luxury cars and apartments in India's big cities, leaving much of India full of aspirations but few means to achieve them. There is a severe shortage of colleges, yet a plan to build 1,500 universities gathers dust. The Communists in the ruling coalition are against both globalization and industrialization, so without new factories being built, employment growth has been almost stagnant, rising to just 2%—a disappointing rate in a country where an estimated 14 million youths enter the workforce every year, but just 1 million get jobs in the regulated, above-ground economy.

Meanwhile, few expect any bold moves New Delhi, especially with national elections due in 2009 and five important state elections scheduled before the end of this year. Thus far, the ruling Congress party's record has been poor; it has lost almost every state election this year and is likely to lose all five of the upcoming ones.

The big hope for a return to the course of reform in India, businessmen hope, will be a new government in New Delhi next year. The gravest danger is that India's messy coalition politics will bring into power another indecisive alliance that will keep the country in policy limbo for another five years. If so, says S&P's Gokarn, it's a meltdown scenario: growth slipping below 6.5%, accelerating the chances of India reverting to its 1991 status when it was plunged into a balance-of-payments crisis.

Source:
http://www.businessweek.com/globalbiz/content/jul2008/gb2008071_743900.htm

Indian Economy Is In Trouble


India's industry, Infrastructure growth nosedives

amidst crisis in the global financial markets, India on Friday reported a sharp drop in industrial growth to 1.3 per cent in August from a high of 10.9 a year-ago.

The manufacturing sector put out a dismal performance growing by a mere 1.1 per cent as against 10.7 per cent in the same period a year ago.

The growth in key infrastructure industries too dipped to 2.3 per cent in August 2008, compared with 9.5 per cent in the same period last year.

The cement sector declined to 1.9 per cent against 16.7 per cent in August 2007, while coal output dropped to 5.9 per cent compared with 8 per cent in the corresponding year.

Finished (carbon) steel growth also declined to 4.4 per cent in August, from 9.6 per cent in the same month last year.

For the April-August period of 2008-09, crude oil production registered a negative growth of 0.9 per cent, against one per cent during the same period last year, while petroleum refinery products dropped to 4.8 per cent from a healthy 10.4 per cent in the same period last year.

Source.

Weakening currency

the weak currency ended Oct. 8 at 48 rupees to the dollar, its lowest level in 5½ years. The rupee has taken a 21% dive since January.

Source

The currency reached a record low of 49.26 per dollar in intraday trading on Friday (10-10-2008).

Source.

Stock market is in nerve

On Friday, Except Runbacks Laboratories and State Bank of India, all the other 28 stocks in the Senses basket ended lower. Among the major losers, Reliance Communications crashed 21.02% at Rs237.40, ICICI Bank plunged 19.71% at Rs364.10, Reliance Infrastructure slumped 19.26% at Rs515.30 and JP Associates crumbled 16.27% at Rs76.15. Tata Steel plummeted 14.99% at Rs287.50, Hidalgo Industries dropped 11.18% at Rs80.65, HDFC shed 8.98% at Rs1719.20, DLF tanked 8.79% at Rs281.65, BHEL declined 8.28% at Rs1,345.85 and Larsen & Toubro lost 8.02% at Rs889.15. Other heavyweights also came under sustained selling pressure and lost around 5-7% each.

Realty stocks were battered the worst. Orbit Corporation tanked nearly 19.45% at Rs87.50, IndiaBulls Real Estate plummeted 19.45% at Rs95.45, Mahindra Lifespace Developers slumped 17.49% at Rs211.55, Peninsula Land dropped 16.05% at Rs28.25, Anant Raj Industries lost 15.07% at Rs80 and Unitech slipped by 12.38% at Rs82.80. Akruti City, Omaxe, Parsvnath Developers and Phoenix Mills declined over 1-8% each.

Source.

Textile sector fails to gain from quota removal

I bet many readers still remember India's tout about India would pass China in textile industry. But the fact hits back again. This following is the news from The Times of India. . More information can be found on that website.

The dismantling of the quota system failed to work wonders for textile and clothing (T&C) exports from India while neighboring China marched ahead, despite restrictive quotas imposed by major importers like the US and EU.

Quota system was dismantled in 2005 and India was counted among key beneficiaries. However, the survey clearly shows that China beat India in major markets like the US and EU, leaving much to be desired.

"Though the growth in our T&C exports to the world accelerated sharply to 30% in 2005, it reverted back to the trend levels in 2006 with a disappointing 10.5%. China, in contrast, continued to raise its already high share of global T&C exports, with growth accelerating from 21% in 2005 to 25% in 2006, despite restrictive quotas by the US and EU," the survey said.

India's share in the global T&C exports grew by just 0.7% to 3.7% between 2004 and 2006 just when China managed to increase its share by a big 6.3% to 27.2%.

The worrying trend continued for India in 2007 as well, if one looks at the US market. In January-November 2007, US imports of T&C from the world grew by only 3.8%, affecting imports from India that grew by only 2% though China again managed a robust 20.5% growth.

Study Of Quotas In South African Textile Industry

The current question on most peoples lips within South Africa's clothing industry is will the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) extend the quotas on Chinese apparel and textiles that are due to end this year? However, I feel extension or no extension will make very little difference to the economics of this industry sector. Admittedly, if the quotas do end we may see a sudden influx of imports from China as they offer price incentives to our clothing importers in order to recapture market share.


The China syndrome that has dominated the discourse of South Africa's apparel sector is no longer as relevant as it was in the past. The bigger threat to South Africa's textile and apparel sector is the industry itself and the South African government.


China itself is facing major competition from its Asian neighbours such as: Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia and Indonesia. For the most part I doubt South African retailers will hurriedly relocate their procurement of apparel from China should the quotas be lifted. The cost of doing business in China has risen; there are stricter labour regulations as China continues to change its global image of being one big sweatshop.


With consumer spending down and an exchange rate that continues to fluctuate I feel the industry is facing further factory closures and retrenchments. The one positive scenario is the possibility of SA retailers placing more orders with local manufacturers because of the currency fluctuations however; retailers may initiate a price conflict between the manufacturers.

Eco-Friendly Products Made Under 6R’s More Useful Than Normal Fabrics

Textile and garment companies across the globe are slowly but surely understanding the dynamics of bringing forth environmentally and sustainable products to the market. Increasing awareness levels is leading consumers to increasingly demanding eco-friendly clothing, more in particular for their children.

It is difficult to put a finger on the estimated global sales, but the growth rate seems to be sharply increasing with each passing year. More and more companies are jumping on the eco-friendly bandwagon in a bid to capture the minds of the consumers and also market shares of the bourgeoning sustainable textile and clothing market.

The increase in number of companies, flying the green flag at the recently concluded Texworld in France is an indicator of the effects of the growing activism in the green friendly movement. Nearly 10 percent of the 660 exhibitors had a full range of products which were eco-friendly and made from sustainable raw materials.

The spectrum of eco textiles has kept expanding and now covers organic cotton, organic wool, soybean protein fiber, recycled PET bottle fiber, dope dyed fiber, low temperature dyeing textiles, low-pollution digital printing technology, Solvent spun Tencel and biodegradable PLA fiber, among others.

The major apparel retailers across the world have also understood the dynamics of these niche products. Global brands like Timberland, Patagonia, Wal-Mart, Nike, Puma, Reebok, Adidas and many others are in to retailing of these products and in the process demonstrating their corporate social responsibility towards the environment.

Fibre2fashion spoke to Mr Ruey-Guang Tzou, Director, Industry & Information Department, Taiwan Textile Federation, which had hosted the ‘Textile International Forum and Exhibition’, centered around the theme of sustainability and which had hosted a large number of companies in to manufacturing of eco-friendly textiles and clothing, on his views on this movement which is slowly catching up with even Taiwan based companies.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Dhaka Textile & Garment


If you wish to reach out to the textile and garment machinery & accessories market in South Asia, Dhaka Int'l Textile & Garment Industry Exhibition 2009 is the definitive gateway to provide you with excellent quality and high-effectiveness one-stop selling and sourcing platform.

Riding on the resounding success of DHAKA TEXTILE & GARMENT 2008, Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) and ES EVENT MANAGEMENT SDN BHD. announce the holding of The 6th DHAKA TEXTILE & GARMENT 2009 (DTG 2009) with the ultimate aim to offer an ideal platform to demonstrate new products and exploit business opportunities.

The event is designed to be the trendsetter for the industry player to showcase new technology, state-of-the-art equipments, materials and services, as well as an excellent avenue for international suppliers and visitors to expand business to the lucrative market and accelerate Bangladeshi technological advances that will impart effective quality, high speed and competitive cost to gain that all important edge in textile & garments industry.
Venue Bangladesh-China Friedship Conference Center, Dhaka
Show Date Feb. 8 - 11, 2009
Time 12:00 - 20:00 Daily
Admission Trade Visitors and Professionals Only